Apparently, if one does not email one´s beloveds regularly while traveling, the general tone of incoming messages tends to trend downwards. Quickly.
So, I sent a broadcast email, below, to everyone (I hope!) who had inquired about my journey through Peru. While not really a blog per se, I thought the email fitting to publish here. (IE, no gossip, no ranting, no trash talk. Yes, all the editing calloused my fingers.)
Hello from Peru!
If one´s enjoyment of a trip can be gauged by one´s reluctance to remove themselves from the experience in order to communicate with loved ones, then it is safe to say that my travels in Peru have been some of the best in my life. Peru is right up there with India and the Similian Islands. Perhaps even better.
Words just can´t do justice to this amazing country and its beautiful people.
I´ll try to be brief, as today we are in Puno, a city on Lake Titicaca, running errands before our noon-ish bus to Arequipa. Overall, Peru is a very clean country, with kind and gentle people. None of us have ever felt unsafe or even been pick-pocketed. My 4 very male travel companions have wildly divergent personalities, and have kept me in stitches the whole trip. Eric is keeping a log of our journey, but it´s so full of inside jokes that I don´t think anyone but us would understand it!
Lima was our first stop. We slept in a... rather unpleasant... hostel, visited the San Francisco Cathedral, ate churro (YUM), and I donated 50 soles toStarbucks (I´ll explain later). My favorite part of this modern metropolis was the shoe shopping, which I intend to take advantage of on the way home.
Cusco was next, and I do believe that I´ve left part of my heart there. It is a charming city, both quaint and modern at the same time. No high rises, no telephone poles, but still its got all the amenities you could ask for. Eric, John and I museum hopped and visited the artisans of the San Blas neighborhood, while Mark and Mike went up and down the many hills of the city. Eric and I bought gorgeous hand carved picture frames for pennies. I also bought finger puppets and spent hours chatting in broken Spanglish with locals. No one got altitude sickness, which I had been worried about.
Then on to the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu. We did a strenuous hike near Pisac (in the Sacred Valley) to some Inkan ruins, and my legs complained bitterly for 2 days! That hike was breathtaking - literally and figuratively. The altitude meant every third step I was out of breath, and at times the trail was so narrow that one foot to the left and it was a 100 foot drop. The view was worth it though. I took lots of pictures of the hike and the Pisac market, and bought
zambonas, pan flutes. I promised myself that once I quit smoking, I´d learn to play a wind instrument. Well, I´m proud to say that I have quit smoking, and have already gotten a few lessons on the pan flutes!
Machu Picchu... If I were to try to verbalize that experience I´d only do violence to it. You simply must go.
Puno was next, which is where we are now. We stayed one night in Puno, which is a seedy pitstop on Lake Titicaca. Then we spent 2 days on Lake Titicaca, visiting islands and spending a night with a local family. The islands and people were gorgeous. I drank
muna tea that the islanders gave me, and one of our errands today is to find some
muna (its a plant) to smuggle back. I just cannot live the rest of my life without that tea! The altitude (highest yet) meant none of us had apetites, but wow that tea made up for it.
Later today we´ll be heading to Arequipa. We are planning on relaxing and enjoying the night sky (which has been gorgeous). Did I mention that I have seen thunderstorms beneath me? And the Southern Cross? And llamas and alpacas (alpaca, by the way, is tasty with cilantro and onions)? And condors? And orchids that only bloom 2000 meters up? And I´ve heard locals tell me their stories... some happy, and others sad (most notably involving the Shining Path)? So many new experiences in such a short time... I wonder how I´ll be able to come home and sleep in my comfy bed!
In closing, I´d just like to remind everyone that I was expecting disappointment. I´ve wanted to visit Peru since I was a little girl - even before I became fascinated with India. My expectations were sky high, and so it is a pleasant surprise that this wonderful country is everything I´d hoped it would be. And so much more.
Really, you must visit. In fact, you may have to come here to drag me home!!!
Love,
Shannon